3D Printer Manual : Bambu Lab A1 mini : It makes spaghetti ( Printing is peeling off )

📌 Issue:

If the print bed is not perfectly leveled, the nozzle may be too close or too far from the surface in different areas. This causes some parts of the first layer to adhere correctly while others do not, leading to print detachment.

✅ Solution:

To ensure proper first-layer adhesion, follow these steps:

✔ Re-check bed leveling:
➡️ If your printer has manual leveling, adjust the screws at the corners to achieve a uniform nozzle-to-bed distance.
➡️ If your printer has Auto Bed Leveling (ABL), run the calibration process again from the printer's menu.

✔ Use the Paper Test:
➡️ Slide a sheet of paper between the nozzle and the bed. The nozzle should lightly touch the paper without pressing it too much.

✔ Check for obstructions in the Auto Bed Leveling system:
➡️ If you use BLTouch, check if there’s a small piece of plastic or debris stuck on the sensor tip, which may affect the readings.
➡️ If your printer levels the bed using nozzle probing, make sure the nozzle is clean and free of material buildup.

📌 Issue:

Even if the print bed is properly leveled, an incorrect Z-offset setting can lead to adhesion issues.

🔹 Nozzle too high: The material is not pressed enough onto the bed, leading to poor adhesion.
🔹 Nozzle too low: The material gets overly squished, deformed, or doesn’t extrude properly.

📝 Important Notes:
🔹 Z-offset adjustments mainly apply to printers with Auto Bed Leveling (ABL).
🔹 If the printer probes the bed using the nozzle itself, Z-offset does not exist.

✅ Solution:

To ensure proper first-layer adhesion, follow these steps:

✔ Adjust the Z-offset properly:
➡️ Depending on your printer’s firmware, you can adjust the offset via the printer menu or directly in the firmware.
➡️ Older models might require modifications in Marlin firmware.

✔ Check the first layer:
➡️ It should be lightly pressed onto the bed, with no gaps or excessive squishing.

✔ Set the Z-offset in Marlin firmware:
➡️ For an inductive probe:
🔹 M851 Z-2.0

➡️ For a nozzle-triggered probe:
🔹 M851 Z1.2

➡️ Define XY offset if the probe is not centered:
🔹 M851 X-1.70 Y-1.30 (if the probe is left-front of the nozzle)
🔹 M851 X0.20 Y0.40 (if the probe is right-back of the nozzle)

📌 More information:
🔗 Marlin M851 Guide

🛠️ Improper or Contaminated Print Surface

📌 Issue:

Dust, grease (e.g., from fingers), or residues from previous prints can prevent good filament adhesion.

🔹 Dirty surface: Grease or dust can cause the print to detach.
🔹 Worn print surface: Scratches or worn-out surfaces (glass, BuildTak, PEI, etc.) reduce adhesion.

✅ Solution:

✔ Clean before every print
➡️ Use isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to clean the surface.
➡️ ❌ Avoid regular alcohol, soap, or polymer-based cleaners (e.g., hand sanitizing gel), as they leave a film that prevents adhesion.

✔ Avoid touching the surface with bare hands
➡️ Natural skin oils reduce adhesion.
➡️ Use cotton gloves (like those used in formal events) to handle the print surface.

✔ Replace damaged print surfaces
➡️ If the surface has deep scratches or wear, replace it with a new BuildTak, PEI sheet, or adhesive tape.
➡️ 💡 Trying to save money on the print surface will cost you more in wasted filament!

✔ Remove old adhesion aids (e.g., glue stick)
➡️ If you use glue or other adhesion aids, clean off old layers before applying new ones.
➡️ You can use a kitchen scrubber and soap, but be sure to rinse thoroughly, as soap contains polymers that can cause adhesion issues.

🔬 Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA)

🔹 Chemical name: Isopropanol (C₃H₈O)
🔹 Purity: Usually 70%-99%
🔹 Evaporation: Fast, leaves no residue
🔹 Uses:
✅ Ideal for cleaning 3D printing surfaces (glass, PEI, BuildTak, etc.)
✅ Effectively removes grease, oils, and dust
✅ Leaves no film that could affect filament adhesion
✅ Also used for disinfection

🍶 Regular Alcohol (Ethanol)

🔹 Chemical name: Ethanol (C₂H₆O)
🔹 Purity: Usually 40%-70% (contains water and additives)
🔹 Evaporation: Slower, may leave residue
🔹 Uses:
⚠️ Not ideal for cleaning 3D printing surfaces!
❌ Contains additives or water that leave a film on the surface
❌ Can reduce filament adhesion
✅ Mainly used for disinfection and consumption (if safe for drinking)

💡 Which One Should You Use for Your Print Surface?

✅ ONLY Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) 90%+!
❌ Do not use regular ethanol alcohol, as it leaves residues and reduces adhesion!

📌 Issue:

Different materials (PLA, ABS, PETG, etc.) require different bed temperatures for optimal adhesion.

🔹 Low temperature: The filament doesn’t adhere well and may detach.
🔹 High temperature: The material may warp or stick too much to the bed.

✅ Solution:

✔ Follow the filament manufacturer’s recommendations
➡️ PLA: 50-60°C
➡️ PETG: 60-80°C
➡️ ABS: 90-110°C
(Values may vary by brand, so always check the manufacturer’s guidelines!)

✔ Adjust the temperature in small increments
➡️ If adhesion is weak, increase the temperature by 5°C at a time and observe the effect.
➡️ If warping or excessive sticking occurs, decrease the temperature by 5°C.

✔ Ensure stable temperature control
➡️ For ABS or other temperature-sensitive materials, use an enclosed chamber to prevent sudden temperature fluctuations.

📌 Issue:

If the filament doesn’t melt properly due to low temperature, it won’t spread evenly on the first layer, causing adhesion issues.

Additionally, initial layer speed and flow rate settings significantly affect how well the material sticks to the bed.

🔹 Low nozzle temperature: The filament doesn’t melt enough, leading to poor adhesion.
🔹 Too fast initial layer speed: The material doesn’t have time to properly adhere.
🔹 Incorrect flow rate: If too low, gaps may appear in the first layer.

✅ Solution:

✔ Set the correct nozzle temperature
➡️ PLA: 190-220°C
➡️ PETG: 220-250°C
➡️ ABS: 230-260°C
(Values may vary by brand, so always check the manufacturer’s recommendations!)

✔ Reduce initial layer speed
➡️ 20-30 mm/s is recommended for the first layer.
➡️ The slower the material is laid down, the better the adhesion.

✔ Increase flow rate slightly for the first layer
➡️ If your slicer allows it, set the flow rate to 105-110% for the first layer.
➡️ This helps fill small gaps and improves adhesion to the bed.

📌 Issue:

The cooling fan can cause problems if not properly adjusted:

🔹 Too much cooling: The filament cools too quickly, shrinks, and detaches from the bed.
🔹 Too little cooling: The filament stays too soft, causing messy layers or sagging.
🔹 Warping in ABS and similar materials: Sudden cooling leads to unwanted deformations.

✅ Solution:

✔ Adjust cooling settings based on the filament type

➡️ PLA:
🔹 100% fan speed after the first layer for clean details.
🔹 Turn off or set to the lowest speed for the first layer to improve adhesion.

➡️ ABS, ASA, Nylon (shrink-sensitive materials):
🔹 Disable the fan for the first layer or keep it at very low speed.
🔹 Too much cooling causes warping, so avoid strong cooling.

✔ Maintain a stable temperature inside the printer

➡️ Use an enclosure, especially for ABS, to keep the environment stable.
➡️ Avoid air drafts (fans, AC, open windows) that can cause uneven cooling and layer separation.

📌 Issue:

Materials like ABS, ASA, and other high-temperature filaments tend to shrink significantly as they cool.

🔹 This results in warping and lifting, where the print corners start to detach from the bed.
🔹 The issue worsens when air drafts or cold environments cause uneven cooling.

✅ Solution:

✔ Use an enclosed chamber
➡️ An enclosure keeps the temperature stable and prevents sudden cooling.
➡️ If you don’t have an enclosure, try to avoid air drafts from fans, AC, or open windows.

✔ Enable adhesion techniques (Brim or Raft)
➡️ Brim: Adds a thin perimeter around the object, increasing bed adhesion.
➡️ Raft: Creates a separate base layer under the print, improving stability and reducing warping.

✔ Set the correct bed temperature
➡️ 90-110°C for ABS to minimize shrinkage on the first layer.
➡️ If warping persists, slightly increase the bed temperature or use adhesion aids (like glue stick or hairspray).

📌 Issue:

Some materials or surfaces (e.g., glass, PEI, BuildTak) may require additional adhesion support, especially in:

🔹 Complex geometries (thin or large surfaces prone to lifting).
🔹 Challenging conditions (large prints, materials that contract as they cool, such as ABS & Nylon).
🔹 Very smooth surfaces where the filament has nothing to grip onto.

✅ Solution:

✔ Use adhesion aids
➡️ Glue Stick – Affordable and works for most materials.
➡️ Hairspray – Works well on glass beds, applied in a thin layer.
➡️ Magigoo or specialized adhesives – Designed specifically for 3D printing, providing excellent adhesion and easy cleanup.
➡️ Blue Painter’s Tape – Used mainly for PLA and PETG to improve bed adhesion.

✔ Apply glue or hairspray properly
➡️ Spread it evenly in a thin layer.
➡️ Let it dry slightly before starting the print.

✔ Regular maintenance and cleaning
➡️ Clean the print surface regularly to remove old adhesive layers.
➡️ Reapply the adhesive before each print for consistent results.

📌 Issue:

Most filaments (PLA, PETG, ABS, Nylon, TPU) are hygroscopic, meaning they absorb moisture from the air.

🔹 If filament absorbs too much moisture, it can cause:
✔ Bubbles or foaming during extrusion, due to water evaporation.
✔ Unstable first layer, leading to poor bed adhesion.
✔ Inconsistent extrusion, affecting print quality.

🔹 If the filament is too dry, it can become brittle, leading to breakages during feeding.

✅ Solution:

✔ Store filament properly
➡️ Use airtight containers for filament storage.
➡️ Add silica gel packets to absorb excess moisture.

✔ Dry filament before printing
➡️ If filament seems damp, dry it using:
🔹 Filament dryers (best option).
🔹 Dehydrator or drying oven (PLA: 45-50°C for 4-6 hours).
🔹 Kitchen oven at low temperature (only if it has precise temperature control!).

✔ Avoid humid environments
➡️ If you live in a high-humidity area, store filament in a controlled environment.
➡️ Keeping filament dry ensures better adhesion and print quality.

📌 Issue:

Incorrect slicer settings can cause poor first-layer adhesion, leading to issues such as:

🔹 Too thin first layer: Doesn’t adhere properly to the bed.
🔹 Too high print speed: The filament doesn’t have time to spread evenly.
🔹 Incorrect flow rate: Too low causes gaps, too high leads to over-extrusion.
🔹 Insufficient perimeters/brims: Corners may lift due to material shrinkage.

✅ Solution:

✔ Increase first-layer thickness
➡️ Instead of 0.1 mm, try 0.2 mm or 150% of the regular layer height.
➡️ This allows the nozzle to press the first layer more firmly onto the bed.

✔ Use brim or skirt
➡️ Brim: Increases the surface area of adhesion, reducing warping.
➡️ Skirt: Ensures smooth filament flow before starting the actual print.

✔ Adjust perimeter settings
➡️ Increase the number of perimeters (shells) for added stability.
➡️ If warping occurs, try using at least 3 perimeters for better structural support.

📌 Issue:

Air drafts from open windows, air conditioners, or fans can cause uneven cooling, leading to:

🔹 Warping and bed adhesion issues due to sudden cooling.
🔹 Localized shrinkage, causing cracks or layer separation.
🔹 Instability in layer adhesion, especially with materials like ABS & Nylon.

✅ Solution:

✔ Place the printer in a draft-free area
➡️ Avoid spots near doors, windows, or air vents where airflow is strong.

✔ Use an enclosure
➡️ An enclosure helps stabilize temperature and minimizes the effects of air drafts.
➡️ Especially important for ABS, ASA, and Nylon, which are temperature-sensitive.

✔ Control air movement in the room
➡️ Avoid frequent opening/closing of doors and windows during printing.
➡️ If printing in a shared space, let others know not to adjust the AC or heating mid-print.

📌 Issue:

Different filaments require different bed surfaces for proper adhesion.

🔹 PLA: Sticks well to glass or PEI but may struggle on some surfaces if the temperature is incorrect.
🔹 PETG: Often sticks too much to PEI, potentially damaging the surface.
🔹 ABS & Nylon: Prone to warping and require adhesion aids like PVA glue or special adhesion sheets.

Using an unsuitable combination of filament and bed surface can lead to poor adhesion, warping, or even bed damage.

✅ Solution:

✔ Choose the right surface for your filament
➡️ PLA → Best on glass (with proper temperature) or PEI/BuildTak.
➡️ PETG → Works well on PEI, BuildTak, but apply glue stick to prevent over-adhesion.
➡️ ABS, ASA → Needs glass with glue, PEI, or BuildTak; an enclosure helps maintain stable temperatures.
➡️ Nylon → Requires PVA glue stick or special adhesion sheets to prevent lifting.

✔ Check manufacturer recommendations
➡️ Always review the filament manufacturer’s guidelines on recommended bed surfaces.
➡️ Search for community experiences—often, real-world solutions are more effective than official recommendations!

📌 Issue:

Incorrect extrusion can cause severe first-layer problems:

🔹 Under-extrusion → Not enough material is extruded, causing:
✔ Poor bed adhesion.
✔ Gaps or missing sections in the first layer.
✔ Weak printed parts.

🔹 Over-extrusion → Too much material is extruded, causing:
✔ Bulging and uneven surfaces.
✔ Issues with upper layers not printing correctly.
✔ Difficulty in first-layer adhesion.

✅ Solution:

✔ Calibrate your printer
➡️ Adjust the flow rate (Extrusion Multiplier) in your slicer.
➡️ Verify the extruder steps/mm settings (can be checked using the M92 command).

✔ Check for partial nozzle clogs
➡️ If extrusion is inconsistent, the nozzle might have a partial clog.
➡️ Clean the nozzle using a cleaning needle or perform a cold pull (especially effective with Nylon).

✔ Inspect the extruder for mechanical issues
➡️ Ensure the extruder gear is clean and free of filament debris.
➡️ Adjust the extruder tension – too loose and it won’t grip the filament, too tight and it may deform or grind it.
➡️ Check the belts and gears for any wear that might affect filament flow.

📌 Issue:

For prints lasting many hours or days, environmental stability is crucial.

🔹 Temperature fluctuations (e.g., day vs. night) can cause shrinkage or warping.
🔹 Humidity changes can affect the filament (especially hygroscopic materials like Nylon or PETG).
🔹 Vibrations from long prints can loosen screws, belts, or bed leveling over time.

✅ Solution:

✔ Maintain stable room conditions
➡️ Keep temperature and humidity constant throughout the entire print.
➡️ If the environment changes drastically (e.g., air conditioning), set it to a stable temperature.

✔ Use an enclosure for long prints
➡️ An enclosure ensures a stable temperature even after many hours.
➡️ Essential for ABS, ASA, and Nylon, which are sensitive to temperature shifts.

✔ Check screws & springs during long prints
➡️ Vibrations can loosen bed leveling, belts, or other printer components.
➡️ Periodically check screws, belts, and pulleys to ensure everything stays tight.

📌 Issue:

Incorrect Raft Air Gap or Brim settings can impact print adhesion to the bed.

🔹 Raft with too large Air Gap → The object doesn’t adhere well and may detach as it cools.
🔹 Raft with too small Air Gap → The object sticks too much to the raft, making removal difficult and leaving residue.
🔹 Brim with too few lines → Doesn’t provide enough support to hold the object firmly.

✅ Solution:

✔ Adjust the "Raft Air Gap" properly
➡️ Use a small gap (0.1 - 0.2 mm) for strong adhesion between the raft and the object.
➡️ In advanced slicers, there are separate settings for the first layer on the raft – tweak them if adhesion issues occur.

✔ Increase the number of brim lines for better adhesion
➡️ If corners lift, increase the brim width (5-10 lines) to expand the contact surface.

✔ Use a raft only when necessary
➡️ Rafts increase print time and may leave surface imperfections.
➡️ Use them only if other adhesion techniques (brim, glues, correct temperature) don’t work.

The proper adhesion of a 3D print to the print bed depends on multiple factors:

✔ Correct Z-offset adjustment – Ensures the nozzle is at the right distance.
✔ Proper bed & nozzle temperature – Each filament type requires specific temperatures.
✔ Clean and appropriate print surface – Residues or the wrong bed material reduce adhesion.
✔ Filament quality & storage – Moist or low-quality filament affects print results.
✔ Stable environmental conditions – Air drafts and temperature fluctuations can cause warping.
✔ Slicer settings – First layer, speed, flow rate, brim/raft, and other parameters.

🛠 A systematic approach to solving adhesion issues:

🔹 Check bed leveling – Make sure the print bed is properly adjusted.
🔹 Adjust the first layer correctly – Optimize Z-offset, speed, and flow rate.
🔹 Clean the print surface – Remove oils, dust, and previous print residues.
🔹 Follow recommended temperatures – Each filament has an optimal bed & nozzle temperature.
🔹 Experiment with brim/raft & adhesion aids – If adhesion problems persist, try these solutions.

By systematically troubleshooting and making small adjustments, you reduce print detachment issues and increase success rates, even with large or demanding prints.

🖨️ Happy printing! 🚀